Takes a Lickin', Keeps on Tickin': Near Disaster at the Laundromat

              On May 9^th, we had a lovely trip on the sometimes difficult Johnstone Strait as the winds were lower than predicted. Our next stop was Port McNeill, a good stocking- up and departure point for our crossing of the open ocean north of Vancouver Island. Many services were a short walk from the boat docks, including a laundromat which Roxie and I decided to use. As I watched the water filling one of my machines, I was horrified to see my almost new Kindle IN THE MACHINE! Roxie was able to pry open the door enough so the machine stopped while I ran across the street to get someone from the auto parts store  to help me. (They own the laundromat.) After getting my wet Kindle out of the machine, I didn’t have much hope for it. However, we let it dry out overnight and it worked just dandy in the morning.

             We stayed an extra day in Port McNeill as the winds were too high to do our ocean crossing on May 10^th. On the 11^th, we left the docks at 5:55 a.m. with the forecast for light winds all day. For the next four hours, we were still in the lee of western islands protecting us from ocean swells, and by the time we were in open waters, the sun came out and the winds were indeed quite light. From all reports it was a great day for our first time around Cape Caution, and eventually into the lee of Calvert Island. There were ocean swells, sometimes as high as 6’, but they were far enough apart that we seemed to float over them. This crossing was a personal challenge for me (Susan) as I have never wanted to take our own boat out into the ocean, and it was a long day for both of us, but we made it! Also, the reward at the end was anchoring in a beautiful cove called Fury Bay that was calm and peaceful. We kayaked to a white crushed shell beach with the ocean waves crashing on the other side of a narrow spit.

                Our next day’s journey up Fitzhugh Sound and beyond showed us what the words "Inside Passage" really mean. We experienced calm waters and pleasant cruising while a near-gale was blowing on the other side of the adjacent island (nearest the ocean). Also, there was also always a cove or inlet to duck into if the weather did get nasty. Very reassuring!

               

                As we made our way up the Discovery Coast (as some cruisers call it), we found many interesting names for the various coves, inlets, passages, and nooks. Besides the ones named after explorers and those with words from Native languages, others are whimsical or downright amusing. Try Fish Egg Inlet, Mantrap Inlet, Gee Whiz Nook, Remotesville Cove, Bitter End Cove, Fancy Cove, Alarm Cove, Poison Cove, and Split Head. We were pleased  one day to pass by Dean Channel and go down a passage between Roderick Island and Susan Island. That evening we stayed in Bottleneck Inlet (shaped as such) and walked on Roderick Island! To complete it all, we traveled the next day in McKay Reach. (Rod’s full name is Roderick McKay Dean.)

                Our next few days were spent moving up the inner coastal waters. We got up early each day to enjoy the calmest water and anchored in lovely coves each evening. There was always a little beach to take Katie for a time, although there were no trails to really do a good walk. For our boating friends, we did stop at Butedale, a former cannery that is in shambles, for about 30 minutes and took a quick tour of the property with Lou, the caretaker, and his assistant, Corey. The word is that all of the buildings will be bulldozed down this June. We’ll take a peek on our way back south. We saw many waterfalls along the way, as the snow is finally starting to melt.

                A fun stop for the night of May 14^th was a Native village called Hartley Bay. It’s on the B.C. road map, although there are no roads leading to it and the roads in the village are all boardwalks. The friendly residents all seem to have 3- or 4-wheelers with which they tear around on the boardwalks. One was even fitted with a snowplow! We were all thrilled, probably especially our dog, that we got to take a short hike to a lake, where the town’s road (boardwalk) ended. The weather just keeps getting nicer and some of our group wore shorts that afternoon. It was also great to see some other cruisers and chat with them.

                The last night before we got to Prince Rupert was Klewnuggit, an inlet off the Grenville Channel and a marine park. Just like always, there were no other boats anchored. For the first time, we got somewhere by noon and enjoyed an afternoon of kayaking, reading, and napping.

                I hope to send this post at Prince Rupert. We have only had phone contact briefly since leaving Port McNeill, so we have been electronically deprived. I apologize for this post being so long and will try to shorten up the next ones.

Signing out,

Susan, Rod, and Katie